October 9, 2003
The end of our trip was appropriately epic, just following suit with the
rest of the trip.
Max and I continued our way down the coast, touring the Patagonia headquarters
in Ventura, and marveling at 15 million dollar houses in Malibu, and finally
arrived in LA, which is basically 175 miles of urban riding to the Mexican
Border.
We just cruised right in, with no place in mind to stay, lunch at Pepperdine
Univ, and a later break on Venice Beach. As dark approached, we wondered
about our place for the night. So a guy named Brad rolled up, got our
story, chatted for a minute, then invited us back to his place. Nice score.
Later, we're in San Diego, roll into a campground later in the day, after
a leisurely afternoon on the strip, and they inform us its $50 to camp.
I almost vomited, but opted to walk out instead. We would just work out
the old Stealth Camp, as has been done many times before. So we find a
little spot off a dead end road, near a canal and on the end of a fence.
Perfect, we won't be hassled by the police here. What we failed to think
about was the fact that every homeless person in San Diego has also found
this place, so we shortly found ourselves among bums, both drunk and sober,
sleeping next to us. I slept with mace in my hand, and a knife at my side.
Fun night.
So we finally reach the Mexican border at Imperial beach State Park. We
can no longer go south or west, so we are done. The oddest event there
was families having picnics. Some of the family still lived in Mexico,
and others in the US, so they picniced, except there was a 15 foot fence
between them, and border patrol all over the place. A sad and eye opening
state of affairs.
Upon our departure from the Fence, we have to: on Sunday: find a place
to stay, get to a bike shop, box my bike, ship it from UPS, and find a
way to get to the air port for my flight. Now its 3:30, and I think things
are going to get interesting fast. Then Jack and Clare bike up, asks what
we're doing, is amazed, invites us to his place, helps me box my bike,
ships it for me at a great discount, takes us to dinner at a great Japanese
place in San Diego, showers, laundry, big bed with four pillows, then
he drops me off at the airport for my flight. And thus our amazing trip
end with such an amazing act of generosity, fitting.
I did accomplish the ultimate goal of the bike trip. I ate at an In&Out.
Other than that, I have no other wisdom I can offer through email.
I am now in Charlotte, beginning my re-acclimitizing process with my family.
It usually takes about 2 weeks to feel comfortable with being in the same
place for more than a night. I will be shortly returning to the Hill to
indulge in all the people and activities I have missed so much.
Thanks everyone for writing to me all summer. Its so nice to get a slew
of emails when you're feeling homesick in the middle of nowhere. Until
next time.
Peace - B
------------------------------------------------------------------------September
29, 2003
I have now learned many things about California, more to come.
Leon, Bri and Lucas took off in SanFran to head back to Chapel Hill. So
Max and I are on the run down the coast to Mexico. We are currently in
Guadalupe, about a day north of Santa Barbara. We have been through some
pretty classic terrain, and in some pretty classic places.
We have now been on Hwy 1 for hundreds of miles, and have seen great flat
terrain with amazing northern winds at the oceans edge. And we have also
seen huge steep and winding climbs through the coastal mountains. We came
upon the infamous and ever talked about town of BigSur, so we took a day
off and hung out in the redwoods, and enjoyed the beaches. Thank god for
Californias ungodly liberal policies that actuall sell beer in the state
parks, very different from NC.
We've also me some cool cyclists, one from Berkley, and another retired
couple from England. Its nice to have fresh faces to talk to from time
to time. In addition to cool people, I've met more schizophrenics than
I could ever imagine, and people that have just fried themselves on drugs,
and no longer reside on this planet. Many people a day just having insane
conversations with themselves.
There is an amazing mix of really really rich people, (I saw a home for
sale in Carmel yesterday for 18.9 million), all out bums, tourists, athletes,
and just crazies. That, combined with the fact that groceries are twice
the price of ole NC makes for an interesting experience.
Max and I plan on crossing the Mexican border on Sunday.
B
------------------------------------------------------------------------September
23, 2003
Tomorrow I ride across the Golden Gate Bridge into Good Ole San Fran.
I don't think I'll have a problem not getting killed. If I've managed
to skirt death on highway one this long, a little bridge shouldn't pose
a problem. We do ride along the ocean most of the day, which at times
is a few hundred rocky feet straight down, and no guardrail just for fun.
(I know that last sentence made my mom worry). There's also a ton of cars
and even more really steep hills. So when I watch the sun set over the
Pacific Every night, I know I earned that day, even if it was only 50
miles.
I have about 600 miles after San Francisco, which puts me in the latter
part of the trip. I believe that whenever you get near the end of any
longer trip, you get ready to be home near the end. I now find my thoughts
turning to home life, friends and family, dinners I'm going to cook, Pizza
and Pasta, ball I'm going to play with my crew, and a job I'll probably
have to get.
Afterthought - the raccoons out here are really aggressive. One just came
up and took my whole food bag late in the afternoon the other day, it
wasn't even dark yet. I lost all my food, and was very angry. Last night
they reached through a crack in the critter box, and pulled food through
the hole.
See you guys soon.
B
------------------------------------------------------------------------September
15, 2003
We finally have classic cali weather. Its really sunny, about 70 degrees,
and we can see the ocean almost everywhere we go. We camped on the beach
last night, and took a walk between the boulders as the sun set over the
ocean.
I also met some really cool bikers from canada that have biked all over
the place. They also took me out to steak and beer, which added significantly
to their coolness. Other than them there are some really weird people
out here. When they say they keep all the crazies out in Cali, they weren't
kidding. Each crazy has their own story which will be told in due time.
We have stocked up on food, and are heading to an isolated beach tonight
where we plan on taking a day off. No one around, no biking, just laying
on a non tourist beach in the mountains is just what we need before we
do this last push through cali.
B
------------------------------------------------------------------------September
13, 2003
Many people think it was war or political strife that gave Tom the inspiration
for his saying about "times trying men's soul's." He actually
came up with it while he was biking the Oregon coast. Thoughts and words
of quiting were mentioned among this group, which is rare, but none were
capitalized upon.
It all started when we took the ferry from Washington to Oregon, and it
started raining, that was sunday. During the rain, we realized that after
you climbed a huge hill, all you could see through the rain and fog was
the next hill laid out in front of you. We also heard tails and read literature
that the wind blows hard out of the north. Maybe it was the storms, but
the wind was coming directly out of the south, and very hard, day after
day after day. So back to the rain, which started on sunday, monday rolled
around and it continued, then tuesday, then wednesday, and then thursday
it was still going, so were the endless hills, constant wind, and views
of fog. We were so soaked, and we splurged for a motel on Thursday hoping
it would clear, which, miraculously, it did. So after five drenching days,
we got sun,,, and a tail wind.
Since the west coast is allllll tourist towns, there are no city parks
with pavilions to camp under, those days are over. It is now State parks
and campgrounds, with no cover, and greater stress on the wallet.
We are still making progess, about 55 miles a day. I actually crossed
the 5000 mile point on my bike odometer today. This is also our last day
in Oregon, tomorrow is Cali, yaa dude.
I have a new California style diet that I want to introduce to them, and
no exercise is involved, nor any expensive juice drinks. It only involves
one dose of bacteria contaminated water. Then magically, all those pounds,
wanted and unwanted just melt right off. The only problem is I haven't
figured out how to get off the diet yet. After three weeks of this bacteria
issue, I think I'm finally over it, but I am at least 10 pounds the lighter.
Now that we have sun, the rocky oregon coast is quite beautiful, and we're
getting to some more isolated areas in the next week. I'm looking forward
to the redwood forests with 2000 ft tall trees, and also the the In&Out
food joints in Cali.
Thanks everyone for all the updates, it sounds like there were many other
great adventures going on out there this summer.
B
------------------------------------------------------------------------September
2, 2003
Well, last Thursday we finished our coast to coast run. After 4,300 miles
of biking, and countless stories to tell, we made it to Anacortes Washington,
dipped our tires in the Pacific waters and had a beer.
Our last pass over the cascades was just as amazingly hard as all the
rest, and on top of that my body was just generally tired. So I used the
3 mile technique. Every 3 miles I'd stop for a meal and a nap. At one
of my stops a lady pulled over and gave me beer and fruit, which was essential
to my success. The last day saw us climbing out of the arid desert, all
the way to the high cascades with 1000 ft rock spires on all sides, and
snow on the peaks. For our last night in the cascades we camped on the
PCT (Pacific Crest Trail, which is the west coast version of the AT at
2700 miles long.
Upon our arrival in Anacortes, and after a gorging celebratory dinner,
we took the ferry into the San Juan Islands and spent four days on Orcas
Island. During this time, I slept, ate, sat, and did some sea kayaking
and swimming, but mostly resting. The rest was so much needed, and it
felt great to be off the bike for a while. Especially since our group
has been ravaged by a water born bacteria. A week straight of bad diarrhea
can leave the body very malnourished, tired, and in a generally very bad
mood.
Our group currently consists of Me, Leon, Max, and Leon's girlfriend Bri.
Heather had to go back to school, Jared headed back to help his dad with
their restaurant, and Lucas and Danny are hanging out with girlfriends
for a while.
So we are now in Port Townsend Washington on our trip down the west coast.
I may get tired of a solid month of pacific coastline on my right side,
and the sun sets over the water everyday. I'll let you know when I weary
with the monotony, but don't hold your breath.
Onward to Tequila in Mexico.
B
------------------------------------------------------------------------
August 25, 2003
We are now doing the cascades.
We climb one hill a day. Thats it.
We did Shermans pass the other day, the highest pass in Washington.
We started the climb in the morning, and when we got to the top we camped.
It was a nice cool night, watching the sunset in the cascades.
The next morning we rode downhill for an hour in the 40 degree morning
temperature at 30 mph. When your chilled to the bone from an exhilarating
ride downhill, a hot breakfast in a diner tastes unbelievable. I
ordered twice.
Today we climbed Loup Loup pass. I don't think I've done anything
physically harder in my entire life, honestly. It was four hours
of cranking the granny gear as hard as I could in a hot arid plain.
My legs were shaking and all I wanted to do was collapse on the pavement.
Only one more pass until the Pacific.
Its 5 oclock here, and I may go to bed now.
B
------------------------------------------------------------------------
August 19, 2003
Any health benefits that may have been reaped from biking 6,500 miles
have now all been negated. As we biked through the southern park of Glacier
National, the smoke was so thick, you could barely see the trees on the
surrounding mountains. The lady on the radio said air conditions were
so bad that you should not go outside if you could avoid it, and you should
definitely not exercise. Good thing we were biking 75 miles a day through
the mountains and over the continental divide. It was three tough eye
burning, lung hacking days, but is now past.
It was crazy how the rockies just burst out of Montana. There were no
foot hills, one minute you were in flat desolate pass, and the next you
were climbing huge pine covered passes. A very much needed relief.
We did get to do a nice 9 mile hike in a non smoky section of the park.
Funny how on a day off from biking, we hike 9 miles, but when am I going
to be in Glacier again. We hiked around 2-Medicine lake, to some falls,
and were surrounded by 10,000 foot giants on all sides. I easily burned
a roll of film. I've hiked a few miles back in my hayday, and I must say
that this day hike in Glacier would probably sit in the top 5.
Overall, the people in Montana were not very nice. The drivers were the
worst we've seen. Extremely impatient people, especially vactioning tourists
with huge RV's. People think its fun to come across the white line, and
lay on the horn as they scream by you at 70. Let me tell you, I don't
find it too much fun being on the bike. Then... when you shoot them the
finger, they stop and pull over as though they want some. Well since most
cars have more than one occupant, and we're a lone biker, the only answer
we can come up with is mace. I pity the driver that pushes one of us too
far, after we have weeks of pent up rage. It just doesn't make sense,
if you're a fat tourist that smokes, and can barely make it to the convenience
store for your next soda, why are you going to talk trash to a group of
six burely looking guys that have done nothing but exercise 8 hours a
day for the last three months. We actually had a guy approach us at a
gas station saying
Maybe its because I'm in the middle of a 100 mile day, and its now100
degrees outside. And there's a blasting headwind to boot. So just as I
bake my butt off climbing some huge hill, I get blasted by a headwind
and go screaming downhill at a whooping 8 mph. Fun. However, I won't be
defeated, and I'll make the next 20miles to Sandpoint Idaho, where I'll
camp on the lake shore and swim. And since I biked 100 miles today, I'm
taking the day off and swimming all day tomorrow as well.
Despite the hard hot days, the last 2 have been remarkably beautiful.
Yesterday we were pinned between huge rocky cliffs and a 35 mile lake,
and today was through huge pine covered rocky top mountains next to a
huge wide river. There is about50 miles between towns, so there is no
sign of civilization the whole time you're out.
We hit the Cascades of Washington next.
B
------------------------------------------------------------------------
August 11, 2003
Montana is made for busting big miles, and that's about it. Everywhere
you look, is just like where you looked before, that is if you can see
through the mosquitoes. We started with a bunch of 70's in a row, and
today will be our 3rd 90+ day in a row. I now get up at 5:15 in the morning,
and had 90 miles in by 2:00 yesterday. Which is good, since from noon
on, the temperature creeps over 100 and hangs out there all day.
When the sun goes down, run for cover. The bugs are very big, and while
you're slapping 10, 15 more are on your other leg. They're amazingly large
and slow. But blood does run down your legs in the evenings and mornings.
We have been blessed by a number of days of tail winds, which enable us
to bike at around 22 mph almost all day. I ran into an east bounder who'd
been cruising along at a grueling 8 mph for 5 straight days. Sucks to
be him.
I hit the Rockies in a few days. Incredible that I'll be in 10,000 ft
mountains, when all I can see now is sea level grass and cows.
Tires are still on schedule to be in the Pacific in about 2 weeks.
Good luck to the 90% of people on this list that start school in one way
or another in the next week.
B
------------------------------------------------------------------------
August 8, 2003
So I'm going to start off by saying how desolate and isolated eastern
Montana and western ND are, but at the same time I've sent two emails
in the last week. Rather ironic, but just luck I guess.
North Dakota was the most beautiful state we've been through. It sounds
odd, but its just endless rolling hills, beautiful grasslands, and then
we got to the Badlands. I would just stop my bike and stare in awe at
the canyons. Its like someone put normal dirt mountains there, scooped
out the sides, and then went to work with a box of 64 color Crayolas.
I can't imagine having so many colors in the side of the mountain.
We had a 25 mph tail wind yesterday. I was cruising on the flat looked
down and I was going 34 mph. It made the day reeeeeeal nice. If it was
a headwind I would have died. Its about 55 miles between water sources
or anything, so we hit it hard in the morning and have about 55 miles
in by lunch, then a quick 20 after dinner. Today I hit our destination
town by 12:30. A good thing too, since the town temp is reading at 104
degrees. But they have a free pool so its all good.
If anyone wanted to come and do the route from Fargo to Glacier I'll give
you directions right here. Leave Fargo, take a left onto 200 West, continue
on that for 350 miles, then take a left on route 2 West and continue for
550 miles and you're there.
We'll be in Seattle by the 28th, so if anyone is going to be there, let
me know.
B
------------------------------------------------------------------------
August 6, 2003
So its been a long time since I've written. Well the last time I saw a
computer was Henry Illinois, and now I'm in the middle of North Dakota,
aka the middle of nowhere. Obviously a ton has happened since I've last
written, so here's some snippets of whats gone on.
Bottom line, North Dakota is amazing to ride through, there are no towns
or signs of civilization, the place I'm in now is an oasis of 200 people.
But riding through the plains of amber grain, huge fields of sunflowers,
rolling hills, endless lakes, all on road that you can see for 10 miles
in every direction. Its especially nice to see the contrast of the green
grass against the golden rolling wheat fields, against the ominous black
sky as a storm swoops in to pound you, there's now surprises here, you
know when its coming.
Minnesota was also amazing. Riding along the Mississippi, and hanging
out in Minneapolis for a while. The drivers there were jerks though. I
got in more yelling matches that involved the F-bomb, and shot the finger
more in that state than any other.
We did take a day off with an old thru hiking friend, Sugar, and went
to here boy scout camp, Many Points, that was really really in the middle
of nowhere. It was a typical wonder camp visit where there's just tons
to do. We galloped horses through the countryside, went wind surfing,
climbing, and to an official "hootinanny" (music fire and beer).
Obviously from being out here so long now (2800 miles) we're very into
the lifestyle. Our days start with biking around 7:00 am, a nice lunch
break somewhere and hit our destination in early afternoon. Upon arrival
we play ball (still undefeated), go swimming (city pools just love us)
or have a spades tournament, all while trying to score a shower at a fire
station, and join in on the local family barbeque.
My main biking partner for the last month had to leave today. Josh and
I usually hung out together during the day, killed some people on the
courts, and mauled a Subway whenever we came upon one. In his time out
he saw a ton of the country, 1400 miles, and even rode a century (100
miles in a day). Pretty impressive for 15. I enjoyed his company immensely,
and he added a lot of craziness and exuberance to the trip that I already
miss. He wanted very badly to make it to Seattle, but a drawback to being
15 is school, and it claimed him.
I could write forever more, but I'll let you guys see the movie. Thanks
everyone for all the email birthday greetings, it was nice to check email
and have a ton of virtual birthday greetings.
We're off to an even more desolate area of ND and then into eastern Montana,
where we stay on the same road for 400 miles or so. At least I won't take
a wrong turn.
Side Note - For those of you who know him, or of him, the legendary Zeb.
He recently finished the PCT (2700 mile west coast trail) (Congrats Zeb
if you read this). And in true Zeb style, he did the whole thing in 67
days, which broke the previous record by 17 days. 17 DAYS.
Keep the updates from the home front coming.
Peace - B
------------------------------------------------------------------------
July 16, 2003
Its really amazing how much corn we grow in this country. I've been biking
about 60 miles a day, and for the last 10 days, all we've seen is corn.
However. The riding has been amazing. Its really nice and flat, the towns
are very small and hospitable, and there is absolutely no traffic on the
small country roads.
Being in towns of 1000 people for a while has been quite nice. Royal Center
Indiana was about the best. We rolled into town around 2:00 and pulled
into a park, where a picnic was in session. The townspeople of course
fed us lunch. Next they gave us money for dinner. We played a few games
of basketball on their fiberglass backboard outdoor courts (undefeated
of course), and later a guy showed up with a cooler of mountain dew, and
horseshoes.
The heat combined with the headwind makes biking very difficult. But we've
only had a few days of that.
We are in Henry Illinois now, we cross the Mississippi in a few days,
and
then head up into Minnesota, and some nice bodies of water.
Our youngest rider, Accomplice had to stop biking due to knee complications,
but Josh is still going strong, and is also the leading scorer on our
traveling undefeated basketball crew.
Due to some amazing flooding in the Midwest, there are many entire
cornfields under feet of water, and when the roads are under water, we
have to take off our shoes, and carry our bikes through the high water.
We are now machines that bike and eat. Even I'm surprised about how much
food I can actually go through. Not sheer quantity like on the trail,
but just meal after meal after meal.
Other that the amazing power of Midwest storms, there's corn.
------------------------------------------------------------------------July
5, 2003
Riding has been great lately. We've been along the great lakes now
for quite some time. So everyday, when the temperature soars to
the mid 90's, we just stop and go for a swim in Ontario or Erie.
Niagra was a cool place to hang out for a day. The falls are obviously
amazing, so are the tourists, (which I guess we are also but we don't
feel like it). While we were sleeping in the grass, people
would come up and take pictures with us and all our stuff, and walk through
our bikes almost like we weren't there.
The generosity continues to flow for us; between people randomly taking
us into their house, buying us food and drinks, and sometimes just giving
us money.
We're now in Cleveland where we've spent two days now, and just feasted.
Two huge BBQ's around the 4th of July, with unlimited food and beer, and
fires and fireworks on the beach. Quite a nice way to spend the
holiday.
When Forest ran across the country, people would just come along and join
for a while. We picked up the 'Accomplice' (Patrick) in Niagra
Falls. He hiked on the AT with us with his father a few years ago,
and now at the age of 14 has joined our group and is heading to Seattle.
Also, now that we're in Cleveland, we've picked up Josh DiMauro, age 15,
to accompany our ever growing clan across the country. I wonder
who's next.
There's so much more, but I just can't write it all.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
June 21, 2003
Supposedly. That's what they always say, Oh, its flat from here
on out, and next thing you know, you're cranking up some 2,500 ft mountain
pass that the locals just forgot about.
We're in Middlebury VT now, its lunchtime, we were on the road at
7:30 spent most of the morning climbing up a 10 mile hill, that was a
12% grade at times, then just sat back and let gravity do the rest.
We've discovered that camping at the base of the big climbs is definitely
the way to go. That way you have fresh legs, and a lot less heat
to worry about. With all these climbs in the whites, the sun being
overhead, and us being on blacktop, heat exhaustion can sneak up on you
very quickly.
With the hills as big as they are, Leon still holds the speed record,
now at 47 mph.
Our days of stealth camping in towns is over. On trail it was just you
and a pack, and people were used to hikers, so you could get away with
sleeping in grocery stores, churches and playgrounds. Now we have
big cumbersome bikes, and people just stare unabashedly at you.
And within minutes, everyone knows you're in town. So... we just
start asking, hey can we sleep in your back yard, and almost every time
people say yes. Some just stick us out back, and let us be, which
is very nice. Others bring out salads from their gardens, pastries
from the local shot, coffee, fresh milk from the VT farm, and there's
always the ever coveted shower that the ultra gracious offer.
As far as scenery goes we've been on 450 miles of scenic highway through
the coast, forests, White Mtns, farms and the most classic small towns.
It would take pages to describe everything, so I'm shooting lots of pictures
and video.
The bugs are less bad now.. for a while.. which is a godsend.
We eat all the time, diners, grocery stores, pots of pasta, granola bars,
everything we can get our hands on.
Overall bike touring is the way to go. The body as a whole really
likes it so far.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
June 13, 2003
Well:
We're three days into biking now, and have covered about 100 miles.
We expected to not know what to expect, and guessed right. On one
side, its been amazingly beautiful, cycling along the Maine coast, scattered
with lakes, islands and mountains. Just cruising down country roads
by yourself, listening to a Beatles album and having the morning breeze
whip by at about 20 mph is pretty much indescribable.
We're also so excited to be on such an amazing journey, we're always laughing,
talking crap to each other, and just generally amazed that all of us did
this on the AT two years ago, and now have the opportunity to get together
to do it again. Pretty unique.
As for other fun stuff, one of our riders did fall and crack her helmet,
but she's OK, good thing she was wearing a helmet.
Leon holds the speed record of 41.4 mph. If you're reading this,
stop for a moment and think about how fast that is, especially on a bike,
that is also loaded down with 40 pounds of stuff. I hope we don't
find out what happens if we hit a bump.
We went up our first mountain pass today. It was all of 300 ft,
but I thought I would die. Sitting in my lowest gear, and pedaling
as fast as I could so I didn't fall down. Its like sprinting up
stadium stairs, without the relief of going down for 5 minutes straight.
In three days we cross the Appalachians at a 2,500 ft single gain.
I can't even conceptualize it right now.
Maine bugs win. No doubt about it. During the day, the black
flies attack with maddening ferociousness. As you run for shelter
screaming, you're bleeding from innumerable bites. Then at night
the mosquitoes come out. They're huge. The crawl into you're
sleeping bag through the air hole, and bite your eyelids and inside
your nose. Bug repellent is a joke for these guys. You can't
spend a night outside without a tent. Period.
Besides the huge hills and bugs, this adventure is great fun. It
feels so good to be traveling again, and seeing all sorts of cool people
and places.
Later
------------------------------------------------------------------------
June 9, 2003
Hey Everyone:
This is officially the first leg of the saga that will be the bike trip
across the country. We are in Connecticut now, picking up one of our riders,
Max, and will later get our last rider at the Boston Airport. Its amazing
that we've made it this far. When we went to pick up the van, we sat in
the office, and signed the paperwork for a 10 person conversion van with
a trailer, he gets the keys, we go out back, and it a ford windstar minivan
with no trailer capabilities. This is just not going to work for 7 riders,
a driver, and 7 touring bikes. That happened in Boone. 12 Hours Later.
We're picking up a van in Raleigh. Its a 12 passenger. No Trailer. Its
really tight to say the least. But we're on our way to Maine.
Peace